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手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類
https://doi.org/10.15021/00004347
https://doi.org/10.15021/00004347f6b28547-03aa-4777-8db7-ef34b7233d44
| 名前 / ファイル | ライセンス | アクション |
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KH_012_2_002.pdf (14.3 MB)
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| Item type | 紀要論文 / Departmental Bulletin Paper(1) | |||||||||||||
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| 公開日 | 2010-02-16 | |||||||||||||
| タイトル | ||||||||||||||
| タイトル | 手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類 | |||||||||||||
| タイトル | ||||||||||||||
| タイトル | Principles for a Basic Classification of Handlooms | |||||||||||||
| 言語 | en | |||||||||||||
| 言語 | ||||||||||||||
| 言語 | jpn | |||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ | ||||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ識別子 | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | |||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ | departmental bulletin paper | |||||||||||||
| ID登録 | ||||||||||||||
| ID登録 | 10.15021/00004347 | |||||||||||||
| ID登録タイプ | JaLC | |||||||||||||
| 著者 |
吉本, 忍
× 吉本, 忍
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| 抄録 | ||||||||||||||
| 内容記述タイプ | Abstract | |||||||||||||
| 内容記述 | The handloom is a tool with a long history. It is widely distributed throughout the world and used by many ethnic groups to weave fabrics. Most handlooms consist of various parts and have a complicated structure. For these reasons, an examination of the many cultural elements involved in handlooms contributes considerably to ethnological studies. Systematic principles for the classification of handlooms worldwide have not been established, due largely to the dearth of comparative ethnological weaving studies. The Japanese-language version of this paper presents the results of a comparative study of handlooms. The structure and function of handlooms is described, and a comprehensive system of classification established. The author's field surveys, conducted mainly in Indonesia, and the available literature together represent the primary resources for this research. Many technical terms used herein to classify handlooms were devised by the author. Woven fabrics are defined as those constructed by interlacing warp threads held under tension, with weft threads disposed at right angles. Looms are defined as the tools or machines used to make such fabrics; a handloom is an apparatus operated manually rather than mechanically. Among the constituent parts of a handloom, the shedding, warp-supporting, and tensioning devices are each fundamentally important to structure and function. They determine the classification developed herein, which is organized according to four primary loom elements : 1) BASICS TRUCTUROEF THE SHEDDING DEVICE. HEDDLES, OR HEDDLES ACCOMPANIED BY SHED STICKS. Is a shedding device utilized? If so, how many? What type of heddles or heddles with shed sticks are used to weave fabric in tabby (the simplest, most common method of uniting warp and weft)? Thirteen combinations are recognized: AO type=no heddle (e.g., Fig. 59), B1 type-=single loops-heddle+single shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27), (loops-heddle see Fig. 17), BI2 type=double loops-heddles+single or double shed sticks (e.g., Fig. 36), B2 type= double loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 37), Cl type=single false jointed-loops-heddle+single shed stick (e.g., Fig. 40), (false jointed-loops-heddle see Fig. 18), C2 type= double false jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 41), Dl type=single jointed-loops-heddle (e.g., Fig. 44), (jointed-loops- heddle see Fig. 19, Fig. 20), D12 type=double jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 45), El type=single plate-heddle with holes and slots (e.g., Fig. 47), (plate-heddle with hole and slots see Fig. 21), F1 type= single bar-heddle with triangular slots (e.g., Fig. 49), (bar-heddle with triangular slots see Fig. 22), G1 type=single set of tablets-heddle with holes (e.g., Fig. 50), (tablets-heddle with holes see Fig. 23), H1 type=single cylinder-heddle with grooves (e.g., Fig. 51), (cylinder-heddle with grooves see Fig. 24), I3 type= pulley-cord-heddles (e.g., Fig. 25). 2) ARRANGEMENT OF THE SHEDDING DEVICE. How is the shedding device arranged in the warp threads, i.e., are the heddles and shed sticks fixed or movable? Seven variants are found: o type=no shedding device (e.g., Fig. 63), or shed sticks only (e.g., Fig. 59), a type=fixed heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27), b type=fixed heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 28), c type=movable heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 29) d type=movable heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 31), e type=fixed heddle (e.g., Fig. 47), 1' type=movable heddle (e.g., Fig. 37). 3) WARP-SUPPORTING SYSTEM. How are the warp threads supported and given tension? Three methods exist: a type=weighted warp (e.g., Fig. 8), b type=fixed warp (e.g., Fig. 9), c type= body-tensioned warp (e.g., Fig. 10). 4) WARPING SYSTEM. How are warp threads stretched on the handloom (a factor which influences the shape of the finished fabric)? There are four arrangements: a type=circular warp (e.g., Fig. 11), b type=false circular warp (e.g., Fig. 12), c type=knottceidr cular warp (e.g., Fig. 13), d type=flat warp (e.g., Fig. 14). If, for example, a handloom has a B1 type shedding device in an arrangement of a type, warp-supporting system of b type, and warping system of c type, it will be classified as a Blabc type handloom. Theoretical combination of all types of the four elements listed above results in 12 types of handlooms without heddles and 408 types of handlooms with heddles. However, judging from available data there are only 40 types of handlooms worldwide, 5 of which lack heddles. Summary results of this handloom classification are tabled in Fig. 56. |
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| 書誌情報 |
国立民族学博物館研究報告 en : Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology 巻 12, 号 2, p. 315-447, 発行日 1987-11-10 |
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| 出版者 | ||||||||||||||
| 出版者 | 国立民族学博物館 | |||||||||||||
| 出版者（英） | ||||||||||||||
| 出版者 | National Museum of Ethnology | |||||||||||||
| ISSN | ||||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子タイプ | ISSN | |||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子 | 0385-180X | |||||||||||||
| 書誌レコードID | ||||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子タイプ | NCID | |||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子 | AN00091943 | |||||||||||||
| 著者版フラグ | ||||||||||||||
| 出版タイプ | VoR | |||||||||||||
| 出版タイプResource | http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 | |||||||||||||
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Cite as
吉本, 忍, 1987, Principles for a Basic Classification of Handlooms: 国立民族学博物館, 315–447 p.
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