{"created":"2023-06-20T15:59:14.420719+00:00","id":4355,"links":{},"metadata":{"_buckets":{"deposit":"22adc42f-3650-4ea5-b111-7d3f59ee071a"},"_deposit":{"created_by":17,"id":"4355","owners":[17],"pid":{"revision_id":0,"type":"depid","value":"4355"},"status":"published"},"_oai":{"id":"oai:minpaku.repo.nii.ac.jp:00004355","sets":["345:457"]},"author_link":["62"],"item_9_biblio_info_7":{"attribute_name":"書誌情報","attribute_value_mlt":[{"bibliographicIssueDates":{"bibliographicIssueDate":"1987-11-10","bibliographicIssueDateType":"Issued"},"bibliographicIssueNumber":"2","bibliographicPageEnd":"447","bibliographicPageStart":"315","bibliographicVolumeNumber":"12","bibliographic_titles":[{"bibliographic_title":"国立民族学博物館研究報告"},{"bibliographic_title":"Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology","bibliographic_titleLang":"en"}]}]},"item_9_description_4":{"attribute_name":"抄録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"The handloom is a tool with a long history. It is widely\ndistributed throughout the world and used by many ethnic\ngroups to weave fabrics. Most handlooms consist of various\nparts and have a complicated structure. For these reasons,\nan examination of the many cultural elements involved in\nhandlooms contributes considerably to ethnological studies.\nSystematic principles for the classification of handlooms worldwide\nhave not been established, due largely to the dearth of\ncomparative ethnological weaving studies.\nThe Japanese-language version of this paper presents the\nresults of a comparative study of handlooms. The structure and\nfunction of handlooms is described, and a comprehensive system\nof classification established. The author's field surveys, conducted\nmainly in Indonesia, and the available literature together\nrepresent the primary resources for this research. Many\ntechnical terms used herein to classify handlooms were devised\nby the author.\nWoven fabrics are defined as those constructed by interlacing\nwarp threads held under tension, with weft threads disposed at\nright angles. Looms are defined as the tools or machines used\nto make such fabrics; a handloom is an apparatus operated manually\nrather than mechanically.\nAmong the constituent parts of a handloom, the shedding,\nwarp-supporting, and tensioning devices are each fundamentally\nimportant to structure and function. They determine the\nclassification developed herein, which is organized according to\nfour primary loom elements :\n1) BASICS TRUCTUROEF THE SHEDDING DEVICE.\nHEDDLES, OR HEDDLES ACCOMPANIED BY SHED STICKS.\nIs a shedding device utilized? If so, how many?\nWhat type of heddles or heddles with shed sticks are\nused to weave fabric in tabby (the simplest, most\ncommon method of uniting warp and weft)?\nThirteen combinations are recognized:\nAO type=no heddle (e.g., Fig. 59),\nB1 type-=single loops-heddle+single shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27),\n(loops-heddle see Fig. 17),\nBI2 type=double loops-heddles+single or double shed sticks\n(e.g., Fig. 36),\nB2 type= double loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 37),\nCl type=single false jointed-loops-heddle+single shed stick\n(e.g., Fig. 40), (false jointed-loops-heddle see Fig. 18),\nC2 type= double false jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 41),\nDl type=single jointed-loops-heddle (e.g., Fig. 44), (jointed-loops-\nheddle see Fig. 19, Fig. 20),\nD12 type=double jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 45),\nEl type=single plate-heddle with holes and slots (e.g., Fig. 47),\n(plate-heddle with hole and slots see Fig. 21),\nF1 type= single bar-heddle with triangular slots (e.g., Fig. 49),\n(bar-heddle with triangular slots see Fig. 22),\nG1 type=single set of tablets-heddle with holes (e.g., Fig. 50),\n(tablets-heddle with holes see Fig. 23),\nH1 type=single cylinder-heddle with grooves (e.g., Fig. 51),\n(cylinder-heddle with grooves see Fig. 24),\nI3 type= pulley-cord-heddles (e.g., Fig. 25).\n2) ARRANGEMENT OF THE SHEDDING DEVICE.\nHow is the shedding device arranged in the warp\nthreads, i.e., are the heddles and shed sticks fixed or\nmovable?\nSeven variants are found:\no type=no shedding device (e.g., Fig. 63), or shed sticks only\n(e.g., Fig. 59),\na type=fixed heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27),\nb type=fixed heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 28),\nc type=movable heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 29)\nd type=movable heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 31),\ne type=fixed heddle (e.g., Fig. 47),\n1' type=movable heddle (e.g., Fig. 37).\n3) WARP-SUPPORTING SYSTEM.\nHow are the warp threads supported and given tension?\nThree methods exist:\na type=weighted warp (e.g., Fig. 8),\nb type=fixed warp (e.g., Fig. 9),\nc type= body-tensioned warp (e.g., Fig. 10).\n4) WARPING  SYSTEM.\nHow are warp threads stretched on the handloom\n(a factor which influences the shape of the finished\nfabric)?\nThere are four arrangements:\na type=circular warp (e.g., Fig. 11),\nb type=false circular warp (e.g., Fig. 12),\nc type=knottceidr cular warp (e.g., Fig. 13),\nd type=flat warp (e.g., Fig. 14).\nIf, for example, a handloom has a B1 type shedding device\nin an arrangement of a type, warp-supporting system of b type,\nand warping system of c type, it will be classified as a Blabc type\nhandloom. Theoretical combination of all types of the four\nelements listed above results in 12 types of handlooms without\nheddles and 408 types of handlooms with heddles. However,\njudging from available data there are only 40 types of handlooms\nworldwide, 5 of which lack heddles. Summary results of this\nhandloom classification are tabled in Fig. 56.","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"}]},"item_9_identifier_registration":{"attribute_name":"ID登録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_identifier_reg_text":"10.15021/00004347","subitem_identifier_reg_type":"JaLC"}]},"item_9_publisher_33":{"attribute_name":"出版者","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_publisher":"国立民族学博物館"}]},"item_9_publisher_34":{"attribute_name":"出版者（英）","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_publisher":"National Museum of Ethnology"}]},"item_9_source_id_10":{"attribute_name":"書誌レコードID","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"AN00091943","subitem_source_identifier_type":"NCID"}]},"item_9_source_id_8":{"attribute_name":"ISSN","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"0385-180X","subitem_source_identifier_type":"ISSN"}]},"item_9_version_type_16":{"attribute_name":"著者版フラグ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_version_resource":"http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85","subitem_version_type":"VoR"}]},"item_creator":{"attribute_name":"著者","attribute_type":"creator","attribute_value_mlt":[{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"吉本, 忍"},{"creatorName":"ヨシモト, シノブ","creatorNameLang":"ja-Kana"},{"creatorName":"Yoshimoto, Shinobu","creatorNameLang":"en"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{},{},{},{}]}]},"item_files":{"attribute_name":"ファイル情報","attribute_type":"file","attribute_value_mlt":[{"accessrole":"open_date","date":[{"dateType":"Available","dateValue":"2015-11-19"}],"displaytype":"detail","filename":"KH_012_2_002.pdf","filesize":[{"value":"14.3 MB"}],"format":"application/pdf","licensetype":"license_note","mimetype":"application/pdf","url":{"label":"KH_012_2_002.pdf","url":"https://minpaku.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/4355/files/KH_012_2_002.pdf"},"version_id":"2485e76c-b4f0-4f37-9631-0a10d574d08d"}]},"item_language":{"attribute_name":"言語","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_language":"jpn"}]},"item_resource_type":{"attribute_name":"資源タイプ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"resourcetype":"departmental bulletin paper","resourceuri":"http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501"}]},"item_title":"手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類","item_titles":{"attribute_name":"タイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_title":"手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類"},{"subitem_title":"Principles for a Basic Classification of Handlooms","subitem_title_language":"en"}]},"item_type_id":"9","owner":"17","path":["457"],"pubdate":{"attribute_name":"公開日","attribute_value":"2010-02-16"},"publish_date":"2010-02-16","publish_status":"0","recid":"4355","relation_version_is_last":true,"title":["手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類"],"weko_creator_id":"17","weko_shared_id":-1},"updated":"2023-06-20T19:27:33.690443+00:00"}