@article{oai:minpaku.repo.nii.ac.jp:00004355,
 author = {吉本, 忍 and Yoshimoto, Shinobu},
 issue = {2},
 journal = {国立民族学博物館研究報告, Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology},
 month = {Nov},
 note = {The handloom is a tool with a long history. It is widely
distributed throughout the world and used by many ethnic
groups to weave fabrics. Most handlooms consist of various
parts and have a complicated structure. For these reasons,
an examination of the many cultural elements involved in
handlooms contributes considerably to ethnological studies.
Systematic principles for the classification of handlooms worldwide
have not been established, due largely to the dearth of
comparative ethnological weaving studies.
The Japanese-language version of this paper presents the
results of a comparative study of handlooms. The structure and
function of handlooms is described, and a comprehensive system
of classification established. The author's field surveys, conducted
mainly in Indonesia, and the available literature together
represent the primary resources for this research. Many
technical terms used herein to classify handlooms were devised
by the author.
Woven fabrics are defined as those constructed by interlacing
warp threads held under tension, with weft threads disposed at
right angles. Looms are defined as the tools or machines used
to make such fabrics; a handloom is an apparatus operated manually
rather than mechanically.
Among the constituent parts of a handloom, the shedding,
warp-supporting, and tensioning devices are each fundamentally
important to structure and function. They determine the
classification developed herein, which is organized according to
four primary loom elements :
1) BASICS TRUCTUROEF THE SHEDDING DEVICE.
HEDDLES, OR HEDDLES ACCOMPANIED BY SHED STICKS.
Is a shedding device utilized? If so, how many?
What type of heddles or heddles with shed sticks are
used to weave fabric in tabby (the simplest, most
common method of uniting warp and weft)?
Thirteen combinations are recognized:
AO type=no heddle (e.g., Fig. 59),
B1 type-=single loops-heddle+single shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27),
(loops-heddle see Fig. 17),
BI2 type=double loops-heddles+single or double shed sticks
(e.g., Fig. 36),
B2 type= double loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 37),
Cl type=single false jointed-loops-heddle+single shed stick
(e.g., Fig. 40), (false jointed-loops-heddle see Fig. 18),
C2 type= double false jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 41),
Dl type=single jointed-loops-heddle (e.g., Fig. 44), (jointed-loops-
heddle see Fig. 19, Fig. 20),
D12 type=double jointed-loops-heddles (e.g., Fig. 45),
El type=single plate-heddle with holes and slots (e.g., Fig. 47),
(plate-heddle with hole and slots see Fig. 21),
F1 type= single bar-heddle with triangular slots (e.g., Fig. 49),
(bar-heddle with triangular slots see Fig. 22),
G1 type=single set of tablets-heddle with holes (e.g., Fig. 50),
(tablets-heddle with holes see Fig. 23),
H1 type=single cylinder-heddle with grooves (e.g., Fig. 51),
(cylinder-heddle with grooves see Fig. 24),
I3 type= pulley-cord-heddles (e.g., Fig. 25).
2) ARRANGEMENT OF THE SHEDDING DEVICE.
How is the shedding device arranged in the warp
threads, i.e., are the heddles and shed sticks fixed or
movable?
Seven variants are found:
o type=no shedding device (e.g., Fig. 63), or shed sticks only
(e.g., Fig. 59),
a type=fixed heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 27),
b type=fixed heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 28),
c type=movable heddle+movable shed stick (e.g., Fig. 29)
d type=movable heddle+fixed shed stick (e.g., Fig. 31),
e type=fixed heddle (e.g., Fig. 47),
1' type=movable heddle (e.g., Fig. 37).
3) WARP-SUPPORTING SYSTEM.
How are the warp threads supported and given tension?
Three methods exist:
a type=weighted warp (e.g., Fig. 8),
b type=fixed warp (e.g., Fig. 9),
c type= body-tensioned warp (e.g., Fig. 10).
4) WARPING  SYSTEM.
How are warp threads stretched on the handloom
(a factor which influences the shape of the finished
fabric)?
There are four arrangements:
a type=circular warp (e.g., Fig. 11),
b type=false circular warp (e.g., Fig. 12),
c type=knottceidr cular warp (e.g., Fig. 13),
d type=flat warp (e.g., Fig. 14).
If, for example, a handloom has a B1 type shedding device
in an arrangement of a type, warp-supporting system of b type,
and warping system of c type, it will be classified as a Blabc type
handloom. Theoretical combination of all types of the four
elements listed above results in 12 types of handlooms without
heddles and 408 types of handlooms with heddles. However,
judging from available data there are only 40 types of handlooms
worldwide, 5 of which lack heddles. Summary results of this
handloom classification are tabled in Fig. 56.},
 pages = {315--447},
 title = {手織機の構造・機能論的分析と分類},
 volume = {12},
 year = {1987},
 yomi = {ヨシモト, シノブ}
}