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魚酱の化学分析と「うま味」の文化圏 : 魚の発酵製品の研究（6）
https://doi.org/10.15021/00004344
https://doi.org/10.15021/0000434437804886-546d-4f93-8447-6ce80f74a0a9
| 名前 / ファイル | ライセンス | アクション |
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KH_012_3_006.pdf (3.3 MB)
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| Item type | 紀要論文 / Departmental Bulletin Paper(1) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 公開日 | 2010-02-16 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| タイトル | 魚酱の化学分析と「うま味」の文化圏 : 魚の発酵製品の研究（6） | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| タイトル | A Chemical Analysis of Fermented Fish Products and Discussion of Fermented Flavors in Asian Cuisines | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 言語 | en | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 言語 | jpn | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ識別子 | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 資源タイプ | departmental bulletin paper | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ID登録 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ID登録 | 10.15021/00004344 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ID登録タイプ | JaLC | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 著者 |
水谷, 忠士
× 水谷, 忠士
× 君塚, 明光
× ラドル, ケネス
× 石毛, 直道
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| 内容記述タイプ | Abstract | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 内容記述 | In the local cuisines of Northeast and Southeast Asia the fermented products of marine organisms constitute major side dishes and condiments. As is well-known, food patterns of this large region are based mainly on rice, a source not only of energy but also of vegetable proteins. Animal meats have never been widely consumed, neither has there been a tradition of milking. Rather, the bulk of animal products have always been obtained from aquatic organisms, mainly fish. Thus the cuisines of eastern Asia were historically, as indeed they continue to be, based on a combination of rice, fish and vegetables. Throughout East Asia the preservation of seasonally available fish was based in considerable mesure on the application of fermentation techniques. In making fermented products salt is mixed with cleaned fresh fish, shellfish, or other aquatic organisms, and fermented for various lengths of time to enable the enzymes present in the fish to auto-digest the meat and create products that range from sauces to solids, and in which amino acids predominate. Ironically, although such a major item in many Asian diets, the literature on fermented aquatic products is relatively scant and fragmentary, and limited mostly to disparate chemical analyses of fish sauces, the commercially most important fermented aquatic product throughout the region. Unlike the earlier studies, which basically examined total amino acid content, the research reported on here examined each amino acid individually. Further, we analyzed samples of shrimp sauces, shrimp pastes, fish pastes, solid fermented products and narezushi (fish/shrimp fermented together with rice or another vegetable product), in addition to the commonly analyzed fish sauce. Two hundred and seventy three field samples were obtained, 47 typical ones of which were analyzed chemically (see Appendix). Four types of analysis were performed : general, quantitative analysis of amino acids, analysis of organic acids and analysis of micro-organic contents. These analyses demonstrated that the common culinary function of all the sampled materials is to provide both a salty taste and umami ("good taste"). If a comparison is made between fish and soy sauces in these terms, fish sauce contains 26% salt and has a stronger salty taste than does soy sauce, with 17% salt; the total quantity of amino acids in both sauces is about 5% (of these glutamic acid, that most involved with umami, averages about 0.8% in both) ; and the average acidity of soy sauce is about pH 4.8 whereas that of fish sauce is about pH 6.0. Thus in fish sauce organic acids exist mainly in the form of salt, so that whereas soy sauce functions as a sour-tasting condiment fish sauce does not. Unlike fish sauce, soy sauce has sugary and alcoholic tastes. When shrimp paste, one of the most important condiments in Southeast Asia, is compared with miso (fermented soy bean paste) the latter is found to contain 11% salt whereas shrimp paste has an average of 20%; the total quantity of amino acid in shrimp paste is 12%, twice that of miso; and glumatic acid totals 1.6% in shrimp paste, again twice that of miso. As with fish sauce, shrimp paste lacks sour- and sweet-tasting condiment functions. Laboratory analyses demonstrated that the chemical composition of the final fermented aquatic product was not dependent on that of the raw material. Regardless of the local species used, in all cases the function of the product was to provide a salty and umami condiment. This function differs from that of fermented condiments from vegetable crops in Northeast Asia, which are locally diverse according to differences of ingredient, processing techniques and the physical environment (especially climate). The simplicity of the processing techniques and uniformity of the final fermented aquatic products is undoubtedly one explanation for their wide geographical diffusion throughout East and South- east Asia. Further, in present day Southeast Asia domestic and interenational trading in these products is commonplace and widespread. The origin and diffusion of fermented aquatic products in Northeast Asia as well as in the Philippines remains unknown. In China prior to the Han Dynasty fermented meat and fermented aquatic products existed. They were fermented with salt, grain mold (koji) and wine. In later eras soy beans and grains replaced meat and fish. Such fermented vegetable crop products spread widely through Northeast Asia and supplanted those based on aquatic organisms, with the exception of Korea, where shiokara (chokal) remains an important side dish. But the fermentation of vegetable crops requires a relatively higher technology than does that of meats and aquatic products. Thus it did not develop in Southeast Asia, where the tradition of using fermented aquatic products as side dishes and condiments persists. Nevertheless, the common function of these products in both the vegetable crops and aquatic materials fermentation areas is the provision of umami. There exists a strong correlation between the consumption of fermented aquatic products and rice. The culinary relationship between fermented fish products other than narezushi(gyosho)a nd vegetables is far stronger that than between fish and meat. Thus gyosho is added to vegetables and eaten with rice. The role of gyosho as an animal protein complement to rice has been exagerated in the literature. Our research demonstrates that the main source of energy and protein is derived from rice whereas the principal function of gyosho is as an appetizer, a small portion of which assists the consumption of a large quantity of rice. Further, since it is a preserved food, gyosho can be conveniently served at the table with little additional preparation. Hence, rather than being a side dish, the principal function of gyosho is as an appetizing condiment for rice eaters. This paper represents the sixth contribution to the "Project on Fermented Fish". Previous contributions in this series have examined the history of fermented fish products in Northeast Asia [石毛(ISHIGE) 1986a], narezushi[石毛(ISHIGE) 1986b], the ecological basis for the supply of marine species for fermentation [RUDDLE 1986] and freshwater species [RUDDLE 1987], and the cultural ecology of fermented fish products in Southeast Asia 石毛(ISHIGE)·ラドル(RUDDLE) 1987]. |
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| 書誌情報 |
国立民族学博物館研究報告 en : Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology 巻 12, 号 3, p. 801-864, 発行日 1988-02-15 |
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| 出版者 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 出版者 | 国立民族学博物館 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 出版者（英） | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 出版者 | National Museum of Ethnology | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 収録物識別子タイプ | ISSN | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子 | 0385-180X | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 収録物識別子タイプ | NCID | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 収録物識別子 | AN00091943 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| 出版タイプ | VoR | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 出版タイプResource | http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Cite as
Mizutani, Tadashi, Kimizuka, Akimitsu, Ruddle, Kenneth, Ishige, Naomichi, 1988, A Chemical Analysis of Fermented Fish Products and Discussion of Fermented Flavors in Asian Cuisines: 国立民族学博物館, 801–864 p.
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