@article{oai:minpaku.repo.nii.ac.jp:00004421,
 author = {大丸, 弘 and Daimaru, Hiroshi},
 issue = {1},
 journal = {国立民族学博物館研究報告, Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology},
 month = {Jul},
 note = {This paper is a continuation of my last paper in which I
dealt with the transformation of the sewing technique of the
Kimono. Here I discuss the change in the ideal of wearing
the Kimono that has brought about the style of the present-day
Kimono.
The period focused on in this paper is from about 1910 to
the present.
At the beginning of this period, there was the well-known
contrast between the concept of wearing in uptown and downtown
Tokyo. With this. contrast, I propose that there was another
contrast between the female student style and the Geisha style.
The former was akin to the uptown style and the latter to the
downtown style.
The modernization of the Kimono was led mainly by the
intellectuals in uptown and the female students, whereas the
most beautiful style of Kimono was represented by the Geishas
in downtown, which was later ruined by the general modernization
of Japan.
The method of wearing the Kimono became standardized
under the guidance of the female high schools and was accepted
as correct way. Behind this method of wearing, which the intellectuals
in uptown and the female students adapted, was the
influence of the Samurai, who had always prefered the female
student style.
Therefore, the correct method of wearing the Kimono is
modern yet based on the tradition of the Samurai. Modern
people, in choosing the traditions of the Samurai, abandoned the
Geisha style, which was more beautiful, and chose the female
student style, which was a more rigorous style of wearing.},
 pages = {131--232},
 title = {現代和服の変貌 II : 着装理念の構造と変容},
 volume = {10},
 year = {1985},
 yomi = {ダイマル, ヒロシ}
}