@article{oai:minpaku.repo.nii.ac.jp:00004315,
 author = {石毛, 直道 and Ishige, Naomichi},
 issue = {1},
 journal = {国立民族学博物館研究報告, Bulletin of the National Museum of Ethnology},
 month = {Jul},
 note = {This paper, the final contribution to the project on fermented
aquatic products in Asia, examines the origins and geographical
distribution of the products. Papers published earlier have dealt
with the distribution and types of products in Southeast Asia
[ISHIGE and RUDDLE 1987], the ecology of the marine and
freshwater fish species involved [RUDDLE 1986, 1987], a
cultural interpretation of the chemical analysis of the products
[MIZUTANI et al. 1988], a linguistic interpretation of the nomenclature
of the products [ISHIGE and SAKIYAMA 1988], and
narezushi [ISHIGE 1987].
The fermented products discussed in this paper originate
from the combination of fish and other aquatic organisms with
salt, which prevents putrification and by enzymic action breaks
down the protein to produce a free amino acid that imparts the
characteristic umami taste to fermented products. Food preserved
in this way can be eaten raw or can be used as a condiment.
The same phenomenon can be observed with salted fish products,
but the difference is that those described here are intentionally
fermented. Thus the products known as guedj, momoni, lafi, and
loosra, of West and Central Africa, shidal (Assam), nya-sode
(Bhutan), jadi (Sri Lanka), and Kisrayaruiba (Siberia), do not fit
into the category of intentionally fermented products discussed
here.
On the other hand, the liquamen or garam of Imperial Rome
was intentionally fermented and is of the same type as the Asian
fermented fish products.
However, there is no evidence to support the assertion that
the fish sauce of Asia originated by diffusion from the Mediterranean
Basin, and the origins of these geographically distinct
groups appear to be different.
In both Southeast and Northeast Asia fermented fish products
are associated with a monsoonal climatic regime, which is
characterized by a distinct seasonality. All the species used to
produce fermented products share the characteristic of being
seasonally available in abundance, of being easily caught in
shallow, inshore waters (or in freshwaters), of being small in
size, relatively inexpensive and of having few alternative uses.
The original or prototypical fermented fish product from
which all others arose appears to have been shiokara , which
results when fish (or other species) are mixed with salt and
preserved for a long period.
In continental Southeast Asia, apart from the nuoc-mam of
Vietnam and shrimp paste produced in coastal areas, all fermented
fish products were prepared from freshwater species
prior to the 20th-century. Ricefield fishing also developed
in this part of continental Southeast Asia, and the preparation of
narezushi seems to have developed parallel with the rise of irrigated
rice cultivation in the Mekong Basin. Other traditional fermented
fish products also developed in Northeast Thailand, Laos and
the ancient Mon-Khmer Zone, which seems to have been the
probable center from which both ricefield fisheries and the
preparation of fermented fish products originated and later
diffused. On the other hand, fermented shrimp paste seems to
have had its origins in coastal continental Southeast Asia, and to
have diffused southwards to the Malay Peninsula and to Indonesia.
Fermented fish products made from marine species predominate
in Japan, Korea and the Philippines, and both freshwater
and marine species were fermented in historical China.
However, there is no evidence to suggest either the interrelationships
between Southeast and Northeast Asia or the routes of
diffusion (assuming that the products did not develop independently
in each locality).
Apart from the genealogical relationships among the various
products, those made from freshwater species coincide mainly
with the zone of irrigated rice cultivation. In Asia this is a zone
lacking in pastoral traditions and where fermented products
have traditionally been consumed.
 In the zone of fermented fish products there is documentary
evidencc from China, from the first millennium B.C., which
shows that such products were made not only with salt but also
with koji (a fermentation starter). In China, at about the time
of Christ, boiled or steamed beans and other vegetable items were
used in lieu of fish in fermented products. From these the
ancestral forms of fermented soy bean paste and soy sauce
developed in Northeast Asia.
 With the development of fermented soy bean products,
Northeast Asia gradually became a zone in which condiments
based on soy beans were consumed. Although some fermented
aquatic products are still consumed in Japan and Korea, in global
terms Northeast Asia is a region of fermented soy bean products,
On the other hand, Southeast Asia remains the zone of fermented
fish products. Nevertheless, it should be noted that the culinary
usage of both groups of products is simiIar, and that since the
wmami taste imparted by free amino acids is predominant in both
fermented fish and fermented soy bean products, it is the  principal
flavor in the cuisines of both Southeast and Northeast Asia.},
 pages = {199--250},
 title = {魚酱の起源と伝播 : 魚の発酵製品の研究（8）},
 volume = {14},
 year = {1989},
 yomi = {イシゲ, ナオミチ}
}